What causes blackheads on the face?

Blackheads are not caused by dirt. They form when sebum (natural skin oil) and dead skin cells accumulate inside a hair follicle, creating an open comedone. The dark color comes from oxidation: when the mixture inside the open pore is exposed to air, the lipids and melanin oxidize and turn black, similar to how a cut apple turns brown. The T-zone (nose, chin, forehead) has more sebaceous glands than the rest of the face, which is why blackheads concentrate there.

How do I get rid of blackheads?

The most effective approach targets the root cause rather than the surface. Use a gentle, pH-balanced cleanser twice daily to remove excess sebum without stripping the barrier (stripping triggers more oil production). Apply a serum with niacinamide, which is clinically shown to regulate sebum production and minimize the appearance of pores. Follow with a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizer that hydrates without clogging. Use a honey-based mask weekly to draw out impurities gently. Avoid scrubbing, pore strips, and squeezing, all of which cause micro-tears and inflammation that make blackheads worse.

Why do blackheads keep coming back?

Blackheads recur because sebum production is ongoing. Your sebaceous glands produce oil continuously, and dead skin cells shed daily. If the follicular lining is prone to abnormal keratinization (cells sticking together instead of shedding normally), the pore will keep refilling after each extraction. The only way to reduce recurrence is to address sebum regulation and cellular turnover consistently, not through one-time extraction. Niacinamide regulates oil production. Gentle daily cleansing prevents buildup. Non-comedogenic products avoid re-clogging.

Why does my nose have so many blackheads?

The nose has the highest concentration of sebaceous glands on the face. Research shows that androgen receptor expression varies across facial regions, with the T-zone (nose, chin, forehead) having significantly more active oil glands than the cheeks or jawline. More oil production means more opportunities for sebum and dead cells to accumulate and oxidize in open pores. This is a biological reality, not a hygiene failure.

What is the difference between blackheads and whiteheads?

Both are comedones (clogged pores), but the difference is whether the pore is open or closed. A blackhead (open comedone) has a wide opening that exposes the sebum-keratin plug to air, causing oxidation and the dark color. A whitehead (closed comedone) is sealed by a thin layer of skin, trapping the contents without oxygen exposure, so it stays white or flesh-colored. Blackheads are generally easier to treat topically because the open pore allows active ingredients to reach the plug.

Does niacinamide help with blackheads?

Yes. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is one of the most effective ingredients for blackhead-prone skin. It regulates sebum production, which reduces the raw material that forms comedones. It strengthens the skin barrier, which reduces compensatory oil overproduction. It minimizes the appearance of enlarged pores. And it has anti-inflammatory properties that help calm the low-grade inflammation around clogged follicles. AveSeena Micro Algae Immun B3 Serum and Ageless Perfection Cream both contain niacinamide as a core active.

Are pore strips bad for your skin?

Pore strips provide a satisfying visual result but can damage the skin. The adhesive pulls on the surface layer of the epidermis, which can cause micro-tears in the skin, remove protective sebum that the barrier needs, trigger an inflammatory response that stimulates more oil production, and stretch the pore opening over time, making it appear larger. The blackhead typically returns within days because the underlying sebum production and keratinization pattern are unchanged. Consistent use of niacinamide and gentle cleansing is more effective long-term.

Should I squeeze blackheads?

No. Squeezing pushes bacteria and sebum deeper into the follicle, which can convert a simple blackhead into an inflamed pimple or cyst. It also causes physical trauma to surrounding tissue, leading to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (dark spots) and potential scarring. If extraction is needed, it should be done by a licensed esthetician with sterile tools, not at home with fingers or metal extractors.

What is the best skincare routine for blackheads?

A blackhead-focused routine addresses sebum regulation, gentle exfoliation, and barrier health without over-stripping. Morning: Gentle Gardenia Anti-Pollution Gel Cleanser (removes overnight sebum without disrupting pH), Micro Algae Immun B3 Serum (niacinamide regulates oil, bearberry brightens), Ageless Perfection Cream (lightweight, non-comedogenic, seals hydration), plus SPF. Evening: same cleanser and serum, plus moisturizer. Weekly: Honeyactive Beauty Mask to gently draw out impurities. This system addresses the cause of blackheads (excess sebum, abnormal keratinization) rather than the symptom.

Can blackheads turn into acne?

Yes. Blackheads are the earliest stage of acne (grade I). If the open comedone becomes colonized by C. acnes bacteria or the follicle wall ruptures under pressure, the blackhead can progress to an inflamed papule, pustule, or cyst. This is why squeezing is risky: it can push the plug deeper and rupture the follicle wall. Preventing blackheads with consistent gentle cleansing and sebum regulation (niacinamide) is the most effective way to prevent inflammatory acne from developing.

Do blackheads get worse with age?

Sebum production typically peaks during puberty and early adulthood, then gradually declines with age. However, hormonal fluctuations during perimenopause and menopause can trigger a secondary increase in blackheads. Additionally, as the skin ages, the cellular turnover rate slows, meaning dead skin cells accumulate more readily in pores. The inflammaging process (chronic low-grade inflammation) can also compromise pore function over time. A consistent routine with niacinamide and gentle cleansing addresses all three factors regardless of age.

Can diet affect blackheads?

Research suggests a connection between diet and sebum production. High-glycemic foods (refined carbs, sugar) can spike insulin and IGF-1, which stimulate androgen activity and sebaceous gland output. Dairy, particularly skim milk, has also been associated with increased acne in some studies. A diet rich in polyphenols, omega-3 fatty acids, and low-glycemic whole foods supports a balanced inflammatory response and may help reduce excess sebum. This is not a replacement for topical care but works alongside it.

Does blue LED light help with blackheads?

Blue LED light at approximately 415nm targets the porphyrins produced by C. acnes bacteria, which can reduce bacterial colonization in clogged pores and help prevent blackheads from progressing to inflammatory acne. It does not directly dissolve or extract existing blackheads, but it supports a cleaner pore environment when used consistently alongside a proper skincare routine. The AveSeena ANKA Face and Body Treatment System includes Blue LED (415nm) alongside Red LED, RF, Ultrasound, and EMS for a multi-technology approach to skin health.

Woman examining blackheads on face in mirror, touching chin area

Nov 28

Dr. Ebru Answers, Wellness

By Dr. Ebru Karpuzoglu

Blackheads on the face? Here is how to get rid of them

Ever wondered why those stubborn dark spots keep appearing on your nose no matter what you do? The answer lies deep within your pores—and the solution might surprise you.

What’s Really Happening Inside Your Pores?

You’ve probably been told blackheads are caused by dirt. You’ve scrubbed, you’ve squeezed, you’ve tried every hack on social media. And yet, they persist.

Here’s the truth that changes everything: blackheads aren’t dirt at all.

When blackheads are examined under a microscope, they find a mixture of two key substances—sebum (your skin’s natural oil) and dead skin cells. These elements combine inside your hair follicles to form what scientists call an “open comedone.” The pathogenesis of acne vulgaris is closely linked to androgen-induced sebaceous gland enlargement, excessive sebum production, abnormal keratinization of the follicular duct, and microbial colonization [1].

But what about that dark color? That distinctive black appearance results from a chemical process called oxidation. When the sebum and keratin mixture inside an open pore gets exposed to oxygen in the air, the oxidized lipids and melanin within the comedo contribute to its characteristic dark black color [2]. This is the same reaction that turns a sliced apple brown.

This explains why no amount of face scrubbing will prevent blackheads—you’re not dealing with external dirt, but an internal biological process.

Why Your Nose Is a Blackhead Magnet

Have you noticed that blackheads seem to love your nose, chin, and forehead more than anywhere else?

This isn’t coincidence. These areas collectively known as the T-zone contain significantly more sebaceous (oil) glands than the rest of your face. Research has shown that there are topographical differences in androgen receptor expression related to regional variations in facial sebum secretion, with the T-zone showing significantly higher activity compared to other facial areas [3].

The nose is particularly problematic because of its unique anatomy. Studies examining nasal skin found that the inferior or distal nasal skin contains increased numbers of sebaceous glands which are markedly larger in size with larger lumina [4]. This form of acne develops beneath the skin’s surface within the follicle, which is why blackheads can be so challenging to remove effectively.

The Four Factors Behind Every Blackhead

Understanding the root causes of blackheads is essential for treating them effectively. Research has identified four primary pathogenic factors that work together to create acne lesions [5]:

Scientific diagram comparing normal skin pore versus blackhead formation, cross-section illustration showing open comedone with oxidized sebum plug in hair follicle, educational infographic by AveSeena explaining how blackheads form

1. Excess Sebum Production

Hormonal fluctuations—particularly increases in androgen levels during puberty, menstruation, pregnancy, or periods of stress—can trigger your sebaceous glands to produce more oil than your skin actually needs. Androgens are well known for their effects on sebum excretion, and increased sebum excretion is a major factor in the pathophysiology of acne vulgaris [6].

2. Abnormal Keratinocyte Shedding

Your skin constantly produces new cells while shedding old ones. In healthy skin, dead cells flake away naturally. But in blackhead-prone skin, this process becomes disrupted—dead keratinocytes accumulate and stick together instead of shedding properly. An important feature in the etiology of acne is the presence of pilosebaceous ductal hypercornification [7].

3. Follicular Hyperkeratinization

The walls of hair follicles can thicken abnormally, particularly in people with excess oil production. Research shows that alterations in barrier structure molecules and connecting proteins have been observed in the epidermis of patients with acne, creating narrower channels that are more easily blocked [8].

4. Bacterial Colonization

While blackheads themselves aren’t infected, the bacterium Cutibacterium acnes (formerly known as Propionibacterium acnes) can proliferate in sebum-rich environments. The skin commensal has long been implicated in the pathogenesis of acne, and different phylotypes may induce distinct immune responses [9].

The Inflammaging Connection: Why Blackheads May Be Aging Your Skin

Here’s something most skincare articles won’t tell you: chronic blackheads may be contributing to premature skin aging through a process scientists call inflammaging.

Inflammaging refers to the chronic low-level inflammation associated with aging that is characterized by increased levels of circulating proinflammatory cytokines and a shift toward cellular senescence. This state is believed to drive many age-associated conditions [10]. When pores remain persistently clogged, they create an environment of ongoing micro-inflammation in the skin. This isn’t the dramatic redness you see with a pimple. It’s subtle, continuous, and cumulative.

Recent studies demonstrate that epidermal dysfunction leads to the development of chronic, low-grade systemic inflammation, termed ‘inflammaging,’ which is linked to the development of aging-associated disorders [11].

Signs that inflammaging may be affecting your skin include:

Persistent dullness that doesn’t improve with hydration alone
Loss of skin elasticity and firmness, particularly around areas prone to congestion
Uneven skin tone and texture that worsens over time
Fine lines appearing earlier than expected, especially around the nose and cheeks
Skin that seems to heal more slowly from breakouts
Increased sensitivity or reactivity in previously tolerant skin

The connection works both ways: inflammation drives blackhead formation, and blackheads perpetuate inflammation. Breaking this cycle requires addressing both the comedones themselves and the underlying inflammatory state of the skin.

Environmental Triggers You Might Be Overlooking

Beyond internal factors, your environment plays a significant role in blackhead formation:

Urban Living: Research indicates that UV radiation induces photochemical damage to the DNA in skin cells and triggers the production of reactive oxygen species, leading to oxidative stress. Excessive reactive oxygen species can oxidize lipids in the skin, disrupting barrier function [8].

Humidity: High moisture in the air can increase the rate at which pores become blocked. Environmental factors including temperature and humidity changes have been identified as triggers for skin barrier dysfunction and inflammation.

Comedogenic Products/Ingredients: Some skincare and makeup products contain ingredients that can clog pores. Always look for “non-comedogenic” or “oil-free” ingredients, particularly for products that stay on your skin.

The Best Approach to Clearing Blackheads

Now for the strategies that actually work. Based on clinical research and dermatological best practices, here’s how to effectively tackle blackheads: Woman applying golden honeyactive beauty face mask for blackhead removal, side profile showing smooth application on cheek and nose area, weekly purifying skincare treatment for clogged pores golden honey

Step 1: Cleanse Twice Daily

Dermatologists emphasize that maintaining clean pores starts with consistent cleansing. The recommendation is simple: use a gentle cleanser both morning and evening.

A clinical trial comparing different face-washing frequencies found that washing twice daily led to significant improvements in open comedones and total non-inflammatory lesions (P=.03). Interestingly, washing only once daily was associated with worsening of the condition, with significant increases in erythema, papules, and total inflammatory lesions, while washing four times daily showed no additional benefit over twice daily [12].

Key point: Use a gentle, pH-balanced cleanser. Harsh products can strip your skin’s natural barrier, triggering even more oil production as your skin tries to compensate.

Step 2: Exfoliate Weekly

“Using an exfoliating cleanser once a week will also help because it breaks down dead skin cells that clog pores and can give your skin a smoother appearance,” Dr. Ebru advises.

Weekly exfoliation addresses one of the fundamental causes of blackheads: the accumulation of dead skin cells. Clinical studies have shown that treatment with salicylic acid-based products produces significant improvement in acne lesions over 8 weeks of treatment [13]. A review of clinical studies confirmed that salicylic acid pads reduced the number of primary lesions and thereby the number and severity of all lesions associated with acne [14].

Frequency matters: Start with once weekly exfoliation. Using exfoliants more frequently—especially at higher concentrations—can cause irritation and compromise your skin barrier, potentially worsening the problem.

Step 3: Incorporate a Weekly Purifying Mask

While daily cleansing maintains your pores and weekly exfoliation prevents dead cell buildup, a targeted mask treatment provides deeper, more intensive cleansing that addresses accumulated congestion. AveSeena Honeyactive Beauty Mask 3.4 FL OZ jar with pure golden honey dripping, luxury black packaging, Eastern European honey-based purifying mask for clear blackheads and inflammaging sign treatment by Beautecarie

This is where ingredient synergy becomes important. The most effective purifying masks combine multiple mechanisms of action:

The Honeyactive Beauty Mask exemplifies this multi-action approach. It contains:

100% Pure Honey: Honey has been extensively studied for its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. A comprehensive review published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology confirms that honey contains bioactive compounds and exhibits emollient, humectant, and soothing effects while keeping the skin juvenile and retarding wrinkle formation [15]. Research has demonstrated that honey can inhibit bacteria associated with acne, including Propionibacterium acnes [16].

Honey possesses antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and healing properties that benefit wound healing and tissue regeneration, making it an effective ingredient for skin conditions [17]. A plethora of in vitro studies have revealed that honeys from all over the world have potent antimicrobial activity against skin relevant microbes [18].

Application tip: Use your purifying mask once weekly, ideally on a different day from your exfoliating treatment to avoid over-processing your skin.

Before and after comparison showing blackhead removal results on nose, visible reduction in open comedones

What NOT to Do: Common Mistakes That Make Blackheads Worse

Understanding what to avoid is just as important as knowing what to do:

Don’t over-cleanse. While twice-daily cleansing is recommended, washing more frequently doesn’t provide additional benefit and may trigger increased oil production as your skin tries to compensate for lost moisture.

Don’t physically scrub aggressively. Harsh physical exfoliation can cause micro-tears in your skin and trigger inflammation, potentially worsening breakouts.

Don’t squeeze. As tempting as it is, squeezing blackheads can push bacteria and debris deeper into the pore, damage surrounding tissue, and lead to scarring. It can also spread bacteria to nearby follicles, causing new breakouts. Incorrectly selected treatment or improper handling can lead to the formation of atrophic scars [19].

Don’t expect overnight results. Clearing blackheads requires patience and consistency. The skin renewal cycle takes approximately four weeks, so give any new routine at least 4-6 weeks before assessing its effectiveness.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it okay to squeeze out blackheads?

No. Dermatologists recommend avoiding squeezing out blackheads at all costs, as this can bring on more inflammation and lead to scarring. Squeezing can push the contents deeper into the skin or force debris into surrounding tissue. You may also introduce bacteria from your fingers into the pore, transforming a simple blackhead into an infected, inflamed pimple.

Why is my nose covered in blackheads?

Because the nose contains significantly more sebaceous glands with higher androgen receptor expression—more than the rest of the face—blackheads are more likely to form in this area. This form of acne sits underneath the skin of the nose within the hair follicle, which is why they can be difficult to remove.

Do blackheads go away naturally?

Though they’re stubborn, blackheads can eventually go away on their own, though this may take months or years. Keeping your skin exfoliated is a helpful way to speed up the process. A consistent skincare routine including regular cleansing, weekly exfoliation, and periodic deep-cleansing masks can significantly accelerate the clearing process.

What causes the black color in blackheads?

The black color is not dirt. It results from oxidation—when the sebum and dead skin cell mixture inside an open pore is exposed to air, the oxidized lipids and melanin undergo a chemical reaction that turns them dark.

How often should I wash my face to prevent blackheads?

Dermatologists recommend washing your face twice daily with a gentle cleanser—morning and evening. You should also cleanse after sweating to prevent oil from building up. Clinical studies show that twice-daily cleansing improves blackheads, while washing only once daily may actually worsen the condition.

What is the connection between blackheads and skin aging (inflammaging)?

Chronic blackheads contribute to a process called inflammaging—low-grade, continuous inflammation that accelerates skin aging. Persistently clogged pores create ongoing micro-inflammation, leading to dullness, loss of elasticity, uneven texture, and premature fine lines. Treating blackheads isn’t just cosmetic—it supports long-term skin health and resilience against aging.

Is salicylic acid effective for treating blackheads?

Yes. Clinical studies consistently show that salicylic acid significantly reduces blackheads. It is oil-soluble, allowing it to penetrate into pores to dissolve the sebum and dead skin cells that cause blockages. A prospective clinical trial demonstrated that a salicylic acid-containing gel effectively reduces acne lesions and regulates sebum production over 21 days [20].

Does honey help with blackheads and acne?

Research supports honey’s benefits for acne-prone skin. Honey has antimicrobial properties that can inhibit acne-causing bacteria like C. acnes, anti-inflammatory effects that soothe irritation, and acts as a natural humectant that hydrates without clogging pores. These properties make it an effective ingredient in purifying masks for blackhead-prone skin.

The Bottom Line

Blackheads aren’t a sign of poor hygiene—they’re a common skin concern that results from a combination of excess sebum, abnormal cell shedding, and oxidation. Understanding this science is the first step toward effective treatment.

The most successful approach combines:

Consistent twice-daily cleansing to prevent oil buildup
Weekly exfoliation to clear dead skin cells before they can clog pores
Targeted mask treatments that deliver deep-cleansing and pore-purifying ingredients like honey and salicylic acid

By addressing blackheads proactively, you’re also protecting your skin from the cumulative effects of inflammaging—supporting not just clearer pores today, but healthier, more resilient skin for years to come.

With patience and the right routine, clearer pores are absolutely achievable.

References

[1] Clayton RW, et al. Homeostasis of the sebaceous gland and mechanisms of acne pathogenesis. Br J Dermatol. 2019;181(4):677-690. PMID: 31056753

[2] Acne Vulgaris. StatPearls [Internet]. 2023. NBK459173

[3] Regional difference in sebum production by androgen susceptibility in human facial skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2014. PMID: 24289322

[4] The quantification and distribution of nasal sebaceous glands using image analysis. Plast Reconstr Surg. 1996. PMID: 8791568

[5] Ju Q, et al. From pathogenesis of acne vulgaris to anti-acne agents. Arch Dermatol Res. 2019. PMID: 30859308

[6] Zouboulis CC. Acne and sebaceous gland function. Clin Dermatol. 2004;22(5):360-366. PMID: 15556719

[7] Cunliffe WJ, et al. Comedone formation: etiology, clinical presentation, and treatment. Clin Dermatol. 2004;22(5):367-374. PMID: 15556720

[8] Skin Barrier Dysfunction in Acne Vulgaris: Pathogenesis and Therapeutic Approaches. PMC. 2024. PMC11650898

[9] Platsidaki E, Dessinioti C. Recent advances in understanding Propionibacterium acnes (Cutibacterium acnes) in acne. F1000Res. 2018. PMID: 30613388

[10] Pilkington SM, et al. Inflammaging and the Skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2021;141(4):1087-1095. PMID: 33358020

[11] Man MQ, et al. Aging-associated alterations in epidermal function and their clinical significance. Aging (Albany NY). 2020. PMID: 32217811

[12] Choi YS, et al. A single-blinded, randomized, controlled clinical trial evaluating the effect of face washing on acne vulgaris. Pediatr Dermatol. 2006;23(5):421-427. PMID: 17014635

[13] Effectiveness of a combination of salicylic acid-based products for the treatment of mild comedonal-papular acne. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020. PMID: 33070577

[14] Zander E, Weisman S. Treatment of acne vulgaris with salicylic acid pads. Clin Ther. 1992;14(2):247-253. PMID: 1535287

[15] Burlando B, Cornara L. Honey in dermatology and skin care: a review. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2013;12(4):306-313. PMID: 24305429

[16] Eady EA, et al. A honey trap for the treatment of acne: manipulating the follicular microenvironment to control Propionibacterium acnes. Biomed Res Int. 2013. PMID: 23762853

[17] Jodidio M, Schwartz RA. Honey therapies for dermatological disorders: more than just a sweet elixir. Int J Dermatol. 2024. PMID: 38013499

[18] McLoone P, et al. Honey: A realistic antimicrobial for disorders of the skin. J Microbiol Immunol Infect. 2016;49(2):161-167. PMID: 25732699

[19] Chilicka K, et al. Methods for the Improvement of Acne Scars Used in Dermatology and Cosmetology: A Review. J Clin Med. 2022. PMID: 35628870

[20] Liu Y, et al. Clinical Efficacy of a Salicylic Acid-Containing Gel on Acne Management and Skin Barrier Function: A 21-Day Prospective Study. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025. PMID: 40682377

Disclaimer: This article is for educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice.

Dr. Ebru Karpuzoglu

Molecular Immunologist & Skincare Expert
As an Immunologist trained in Molecular Medicine and as an expert in skin care and cosmetic chemistry, Dr. Ebru Karpuzoglu has spent +20 years researching skin, impact of hormones on the immune system sharing her findings in international publications with her audience, and building an award-winning line of products. Trusted by scientists, doctors, editors, bloggers, celebrities and skincare lovers around the world, her deep real-world knowledge and research are invested in every drop of AveSeena.