Different types of Vitamin C and The Science Behind Them

Introduction to Vitamin C’s Role in Beauty Regimens

Ah, vitamin C! My longstanding skincare crush (in addition to Niacinamide… I love Niacinamide!). No beauty ritual is truly complete without its magic. But here’s a fun fact that often gets eyebrows raising: the difference in impact between the vitamin C we gulp down with our morning orange juice and the kind we lovingly pat onto our skin is… well, enormous. Despite being avid consumers of vitamin C-rich foods, only a teensy fraction of that goodness actually reaches our skin. Hence, the superhero entry of topical vitamin C—our skin’s direct line to all those juicy benefits.

By now, you’re probably well-versed in the vitamin C and its myriad of skin-loving components. So, let’s delve into the science, shall we?


The Intricacies of Vitamin C in Skincare

Active vs. Inactive Forms of Vitamin C

Vitamin C, in its skincare avatar, morphs into various forms, each with its own unique identity. Broadly speaking, we can classify vitamin C into two main groups: the active powerhouses and the dormant dynamos waiting for their moment to shine.

At the forefront of the active category stands L-ascorbic acid, the purest form of vitamin C, revered for its efficacy. However, its potency comes with a catch. L-ascorbic acid demands a bit of pampering due to its instability. Exposed to the whims of temperature fluctuations, pH levels, the presence of metals, and the omnipresent oxygen and light, it can easily throw a fit and degrade. This vulnerability mandates extra care, steering clear of droppers in favor of pumps, and advocating for the use of small quantities that can be quickly utilized. For L-ascorbic acid to be effective you will need a concentration of around 8 to 20%. Given it is quick degradation nature, it is not good in droppers or in big quantities or in even transparent bottles. So if you like to use a product with L-ascorbic acid go for the ones packaged in small amounts with pumps in dark colored containers and try to buy as new as possible.

Who Benefits Most from L-ascorbic Acid?

Individuals with normal to oily skin textures. And who might want to think twice? Those navigating the delicate terrains of dry and sensitive skin, as the potent nature of L-ascorbic acid might stir up unwelcome reactions.

The Magic of Vitamin C Esters

Stepping into the realm of inactive or ester forms of vitamin C, these variants undergo a magical transformation upon skin contact, becoming active. I love these esters. What’s exciting is their lipophilic nature, allowing them to cozy up deeper into the skin barrier and offering a stability that L-ascorbic acid can only dream of. Let’s explore three esters that are truly worth your investment:

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP): An Acne Fighter

This derivative holds a special place in my heart. It mirrors the benefits of its more volatile cousin, L-ascorbic acid, bringing antioxidant power, collagen enhancement, and an even skin tone to the table.

Furthermore, studies have illuminated its ability to regulate sebum production and reduce acne inflammation, making it a beacon of hope for those wrestling with acne-prone skin.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) plays a pivotal role in our GENTLE GARDENIA ANTI-POLLUTION GEL CLEANSER. SAP, known for its antioxidative properties and its gentle yet effective approach to tackling acne inflammation and sebum regulation.

This ensures that your cleansing routine is not just about purifying your skin but also about imbuing it with care and protection against the daily environmental onslaught.

Formulations of Vitamin C and The Science Behind Them

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP): Gentle Yet Effective

The epitome of stability within the vitamin C family, MAP transforms into ascorbic acid once it penetrates the skin. Its prowess in boosting collagen and diminishing pigmentation is commendable.

Yet, its antioxidant potential and weak skin absorption efficiency invite scrutiny. Despite these debates, its gentle nature crowns it as a safe haven for sensitive skin types.

Tetrahexydecyl Ascorbate – The Revolutionary Vitamin C Ester

Enter the revolutionary. My favorite! This ester not only promises stability and effective penetration (thanks to its lipophilic traits) but also rivals the benefits of L-ascorbic acid, covering photoprotection, collagen stimulation, and pigmentation correction. Despite its tendency to lean towards the pricier side, it works! It does not oxidize as fast as others. If I am personally looking for a Vitamin C this would be my choice.

It its core, Tetrahexydecyl Ascorbate is a vitamin C ester, scientifically engineered to overcome the hurdles that its water-soluble counterparts often face. This oil-soluble form of vitamin C penetrates the skin’s lipid barrier with unparalleled ease, ensuring its therapeutic benefits reach the deeper layers of the skin where they are most needed. its ability to inhibit melanin synthesis translates into a potent strategy for addressing hyperpigmentation, leading to a more even and radiant complexion.

Recognizing the unparalleled benefits of Tetrahexydecyl Ascorbate, we have meticulously infused this vitamin C powerhouse into our GREEN CAVIAR CAVIAR FACIAL OIL ELIXIR. This elixir is designed not only to lavish your skin with the intensive nourishment it craves but also to arm it against the environmental aggressors that accelerate aging.

Addressing Inflammaging with Vitamin C

When the conversation turns to inflammaging—the nefarious blend of chronic, low-grade inflammation and aging that conspires against our skin’s youthfulness—vitamin C emerges as a formidable foe. Its celebrated antioxidant prowess is not merely for show; it actively combats oxidative stress, a notorious instigator of inflammaging. By disarming free radicals, vitamin C not only shields our skin from the insidious advance of premature aging but also embarks on a restorative journey to repair and rejuvenate the skin barrier. This concerted effort fosters a healthier, more resilient visage, brimming with vitality.

Furthermore, vitamin C’s acclaimed ability to spur collagen production stands as a bulwark against the ravages of inflammaging. Through its collagen-boosting endeavours, it fortifies the skin’s structure and elasticity, effectively turning back the clock on aging indicators and enhancing the skin’s overall health and radiance.

In essence, whether through the simple pleasure of a vitamin C-rich meal or the deliberate act of incorporating a topical vitamin C serum into our skincare routine, this powerhouse ingredient plays a pivotal role in our holistic approach to maintaining radiant, youthful skin, securing its place as an indispensable ally in our dietary and skincare arsenals.



Scientific References:

Pullar, J. M., Carr, A. C., & Vissers, M. C. (2017). “The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health.” Nutrients, 9(8), 866. DOI:10.3390/nu9080866.
Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. Y. Z. (2017). “Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications.” The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 10(7), 14–17. PMID: 29104718.
Farris, P. K. (2005). “Topical Vitamin C: A Useful Agent for Treating Photoaging and Other Dermatologic Conditions.” Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7 Pt 2), 814-818. DOI:10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31725.
Murray, J.C., Burch, J.A., Streilein, R.D., Iannacchione, M.A., Hall, R.P., and Pinnell, S.R. (2008). A topical antioxidant solution containing vitamins C and E stabilized by ferulic acid provides protection for human skin against damage caused by ultraviolet irradiation. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 59(3), 418-425.
Pinnell, S.R., Yang, H., Omar, M., Monteiro-Riviere, N., DeBuys, H.V., Walker, L.C., Wang, Y., & Levine, M. (2001). Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies. Dermatologic Surgery, 27(2), 137-142.
Telang P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatology Online Journal, 4(2), 143–146.


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